Time Out New York / Issue 624 : September 13, 2007 – September 19, 2007
The appealing Argentine bistro Estancia 460, formerly Sosa Borella, is one of a rare breed: a well-adjusted child of divorce. The split between former couple and Sosa Borella co-owners Stacy Sosa (who runs Estancia 460 solo) and Jorge Sosa (he now helms Sosa Borella in midtown) has given rise to this winning offspring. Stacy wisely chose not to tinker much with the restaurant’s original formula. The breezy whitewashed spot, with its sultry Latin soundtrack, still offers a hearty menu diverse enough to attract a crowd of Tribeca regulars. The old-world offerings—from pizza to pasta to salmon to steak—reflect the significant and enduring Italian culinary influence in Argentina. An individually portioned pizza bianco, featuring an extra-thin blistered crust, a few splashes of pesto, and a balanced blend of ricotta, Parmesan, Gorgonzola and goat cheeses, makes for a fine solo meal at the bar. But the kitchen is in top form when searing meats on the grill. Gorgeously charred, grassy strip steak from Uruguay is accompanied by piquant chimichurri sauce and a generous heap of crisp, golden fries. The mixed-meat parrillada, featuring grill-marked short ribs, spicy sausage and chicken, is ample enough for two. Approachable desserts, like sticky crepes oozing dulce de leche, and a well-priced largely Argentine wine list further bolster the neighborhood vibe. The most obvious change that partisans of Estancia’s predecessor may notice: a single woman—pictured solo in a frame by the bar—rather than a husband-and-wife team, running the show.